Switchbacks & Summits: A 7-Day Adventure Road Trip Through the Republic of Georgia

From Tbilisi's sulfurous alleyways to the cloud-scraping passes of the Greater Caucasus — this is one of the most exhilarating drives on earth.

There is a road in Georgia that makes grown adventurers weep. It begins in the chaotic warmth of Tbilisi, threads north through ancient fortresses and crumbling watchtowers, and then — with very little warning — it begins to climb. The hairpins tighten. The valleys drop away. The Georgian Military Highway is one of the most scenic high-altitude road trips in Europe, crossing the majestic Caucasus mountain range with superb views of snow-capped peaks. By the time you reach the Jvari Pass, you are above the clouds. The road ahead plunges into one of the most dramatic valleys on the planet, and somewhere in the distance, the silhouette of a medieval church floats impossibly on a hilltop.

This seven-day itinerary is built around the spine of that highway — but it doesn't stop there. It begins with Tbilisi's ancient soul, pivots north through sacred Mtskheta and the fortress of Ananuri, rockets up the Military Highway to the mountain town of Kazbegi, and then swings east into Kakheti, Georgia's vine-draped wine country. It's a loop through a country that has been quietly astounding travelers for centuries and is only now getting the recognition it deserves.

The 1914 edition of Baedeker's Russia describes the Georgian Military Road as "one of the most beautiful mountain roads in the world." One hundred years later, the verdict stands.

Before You Go: Practical Road Trip Essentials

• Getting there: Fly into Tbilisi International Airport (TBS). Direct flights are available from most major European hubs; Americans typically connect through Istanbul, Dubai, or Frankfurt.

• Renting a car: A reliable rental is essential for this itinerary. For mountain sections, a 4WD car is recommended — it unlocks off-road access to spots like Juta Valley and the dirt tracks above Kazbegi. Check Localrent.com for local Georgian rental agencies, which typically undercut international chains.

• Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL). ~2.7 GEL = $1 USD (approx). Many mountain guesthouses are cash-only.

• Best time to visit: May–October offers the most reliable driving conditions. You can expect relatively smooth sailing on the Military Highway from May until November. Winter is possible but demands experience — driving in winter requires more forethought, with intense snowfall sometimes leading to road closures.

• Road conditions: The Georgian Military Road is an easy enough drive, but the changing road surfaces, frequent landslides, and volume of freight traffic mean you need to be alert at all times.

• Phone signal: Out in the mountains there's often no phone signal for days. Download offline maps (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) before you leave Tbilisi.

• Budget: Expect to spend roughly $60–90/day per person covering accommodation, food, fuel, and entry fees. Georgia is one of the most affordable adventure destinations in Europe.

⭐ Hidden Gems are marked throughout this guide — these are lesser-known spots that locals love and tourists rarely find. You can also view this itinerary in the app and customize it for your own trip.

Day 1: Arriving in Tbilisi — First Steps in an Ancient City

Morning

You land in Tbilisi and the city hits you immediately: the sulfur in the air from the historic bathhouses, the Orthodox chants drifting from the domes, the smell of fresh puri bread from the wood-fired tone ovens. This is not a city that eases you in gently.

Check into Fabrika Hostel & Suites in the Chugureti neighborhood — your base for the first two nights. Fabrika is housed in a former Soviet sewing factory in the neighborhood of Chugureti, known for its artsy vibe and vibrant nightlife. The hostel has an industrial-chic design with dorm beds costing around $10/night and private rooms for about $40/night, and its lively courtyard with bars, cafes, and shops attracts locals and travelers in droves. It's the perfect social launchpad for your first night.

Breakfast at Fabrika's courtyard cafes — grab a lobiani (bean-filled bread) and a strong Turkish coffee from one of the stalls. Under $3.

After breakfast, head to Narikala Fortress — the ancient citadel that has watched over Tbilisi for 1,500 years. Take the cable car up from Rike Park for sweeping views over the old city's terracotta rooftops and the Mtkvari River below.

Afternoon

Lose yourself in Old Town Tbilisi (Kala) — a jumble of wooden balconied houses, Persian-era caravanserais, and Orthodox churches pressed against each other in the most photogenic chaos. Head to the Abanotubani sulfur bath district, where you can soak in private mineral pools (expect to pay ~$10–15 for a private room) fed by the very springs that, according to legend, inspired King Vakhtang Gorgasali to found the city in the 5th century.

After your soak, walk along Shardeni Street, full of various cozy cafes and bars, distinguished by an interesting combination of European and Asian architecture.

For lunch, duck into ⭐ Mapshalia, the city's most beloved budget canteen. If you ask anyone to recommend the best budget restaurant in Tbilisi, they'll recommend Mapshalia. Food here is outrageously cheap — you can get a dish for a couple of dollars, and a tasty feast of varied delectables for around $5 or $6. It's a no-frills, cash-in-hand, locals-only kind of spot. Perfect.

Spend the afternoon at the Georgian National Museum, which houses a remarkable collection of ancient gold artifacts and chronicles the country's complex political history, including its Soviet occupation. Entry is ~$5.

Evening

For dinner, head to Chashnagiri — one of the best budget-friendly restaurants in Tbilisi, with a huge variety of traditional Georgian dishes at prices that are not inflated. Order the Adjarian khachapuri — that famous boat-shaped bread of molten cheese, butter, and a barely-cooked egg — and at least half a dozen khinkali dumplings. The trick is to hold them by the knob, bite a small hole, and slurp the hot broth before consuming the rest, all without spilling a drop. Budget ~$10–15 per person including a glass of house wine.

End the night with a nightcap back at Fabrika's courtyard, where you'll find a rotating cast of travelers, locals, and musicians. Tomorrow you drive.

🛏 Stay: Fabrika Hostel & Suites, Chugureti — Nights 1–2. Dorms from ~$10, private rooms from ~$40.

Day 2: Tbilisi Deep Dive — Exploring the Capital Before the Road

Morning

Rise early and head to Dezerter Bazaar — Tbilisi's chaotic, color-smashed central market. Visiting the bustling Dezerter Bazaar, where you can sample fresh produce and traditional snacks at low prices, is a great experience — the eclectic atmosphere and friendly vendors make it enjoyable. Buy a bag of churchkhela (walnut-stuffed grape candy, a perfect road trip snack), dried herbs, and local honeys for the drive ahead.

Breakfast right at the market from the street stalls — fresh lobiani or warm puri with sulguni cheese. Under $2. This is eating like Tbilisi actually eats.

Afterwards, take a taxi ($3 via the Bolt app) to Mtatsminda Hill for panoramic views over the entire city. The funicular railway up the hill is an experience in itself ($1 each way).

Afternoon

Make your way to the neighborhood of Vera to visit ⭐ Shavi Lomi, a quietly celebrated restaurant beloved by Tbilisi's creative class. Shavi Lomi is tucked away from the touristy areas of the city, offering a blend of modern and traditional Georgian dishes with top-notch ingredients, in a cozy atmosphere with mismatched furniture and candles — like dining at a friend's home. Budget ~$15–20 per person. Tip: Book at least a day ahead — it fills up.

After lunch, visit Sioni Cathedral and wander the Dry Bridge Flea Market, a sprawling outdoor antiques fair where you can find Soviet-era memorabilia, oil paintings, and vintage Georgian jewelry at negotiable prices.

Evening

Tonight is your last night in the capital — make it count. Walk to Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi's grand tree-lined boulevard, and browse the art nouveau facades as the city lights come on. Have dinner at Tifliso on Shardeni Street — a Georgian restaurant with a mix of traditional decor and modern touches, great for groups, with fantastic food quality at very friendly prices. Budget ~$12–16/person. Order the mtsvadi (grilled skewers) and a carafe of amber Rkatsiteli wine.

Then pack the car tonight. The road starts early tomorrow.

🛏 Stay: Fabrika Hostel & Suites, Tbilisi — Night 2.

Day 3: The Military Highway Begins — Mtskheta to Ananuri

Morning

Depart Tbilisi by 8:30am. First stop: Mtskheta, just 20km north of the city (20–30 minutes by car). Mtskheta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the oldest cities in Georgia, and the former capital, home to some of the most significant holy monuments in the entire country.

Park near the town center and walk to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — the 11th-century cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its impressive architectural design and association with the burial of Christ's robe. Then hike or drive up to Jvari Monastery on the hilltop above town, where the 6th-century monastery commands a nearby hill and offers some supreme views. The confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers below it looks like a painting. Allow 1.5–2 hours in Mtskheta total.

For a quick, cheap breakfast or coffee in Mtskheta, grab a bite from one of the small bakeries near the cathedral. Most have fresh puri and pastries for under $1.

Afternoon

Back on the road. The highway begins its gradual climb northward, and within an hour, you'll reach Zhinvali Reservoir. The azure blue of the water looks like the seas around Greece, and the nature that surrounds the reservoir feels like a natural lake — though it actually supplies water for almost half of Tbilisi's population, with several villages submerged to create it. Pull over at the viewpoint (free parking), grab a handful of snacks from the local stalls, and spend 20 minutes taking it all in.

Then, ten minutes up the road: Ananuri Fortress. Ananuri Fortress is a historic landmark consisting of two churches, a watchtower, and defensive walls, dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries when it served as a residence for the Dukes of Aragvi. The picturesque location, surrounded by greenery and mountains, offers breathtaking views of the Georgian landscape, and the larger church features intricate carvings and frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible. Best of all, the fortress is open to visitors year-round and entrance is free. Plan 45 minutes here.

Lunch at ⭐ Dusheti — 19km south of Ananuri, a small road veers off the highway to this local town. Dusheti is known for its khinkali (meat dumplings). Stop at one of the no-name family restaurants along the main street and order a heap of freshly boiled khinkali. You'll pay less than $5 for a full lunch. Locals eat here; tourists rarely bother turning off.

Evening

Continue north. After Ananuri, the road becomes steeper — gentle hills transform into winding mountain passes and U-turns, and the dramatic landscape of the Caucasus draws you in with the peaks growing ever higher. Around Gudauri, a ski resort town perched at nearly 2,200m, pull over at one of the many overlooks. The views here first hint at what's coming.

You'll arrive in Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) in the late afternoon after about 2.5–3 hours of scenic driving from Mtskheta. The town sits in a valley at the foot of the Greater Caucasus, and the first thing you'll see is the Gergeti Trinity Church high on its hilltop, and behind it, the enormous cone of Mount Kazbek — 5,047 meters of eternal snow and mythology.

Dinner at Green Sheep Café, a popular local spot in Stepantsminda known for solid Georgian mountain cooking — khinkali, khachapuri, and warming bean stews. Budget ~$10–12/person.

🛏 Stay: Red Stone Guest House, Stepantsminda — Nights 3–4. A comfortable, cozy family guesthouse close to the trailhead for Gergeti Church and glacier, with amazing home-cooking and a generous breakfast. The two-story family home features spacious rooms with mountain views from the front terrace, private bathrooms, and a breakfast highlight — and if you're hiking, you'll get a bag of leftover khachapuri and khinkali to take with you. Rooms from ~$25–35/night. Cash only — bring GEL.

Day 4: Kazbegi — The Hike, The Church, The Glacier

Morning

The whole reason you're here. Rise by 7:00am — the light on the mountains at dawn is otherworldly, and you want to be moving before the clouds roll in (they almost always do by early afternoon).

The Gergeti Trinity Church is a 14th-century stone church perched dramatically on a hilltop at 2,170 meters, with Mount Kazbek towering just behind it — not only the most iconic sight in Kazbegi but one of the most photographed spots in the entire country.

The hike starts from Stepantsminda and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours uphill, depending on your pace — around 6km round trip with a steady but moderate climb. Your guesthouse is steps from the trailhead. Wear layers — the temperature drops sharply as you climb. The trail winds through wildflower meadows and rocky switchbacks, with the valley falling away below and the church emerging above. When you step inside the church, ancient frescoes glow in candlelight, and bells occasionally ring out across the empty sky.

Tip: If the weather is clear, try to go early in the morning or for sunset — the light is magical. Start hikes early to avoid sudden afternoon storms.

For the seriously adventurous: continue beyond Gergeti Church toward the Gergeti Glacier — a full-day epic adding another 2–3 hours and 1,000m of elevation. From leaving your accommodation in the morning, climbing to the church and onto Sabertse Pass and returning can take about 7.5 hours and 13km with 1,250m of ascent.

Afternoon

Back in town by 1:00pm, hungry and glowing. Lunch at Shorena's Restaurant, one of Stepantsminda's most beloved family-run dining rooms — generous plates of chakapuli (lamb stew with tarragon), khachapuri, and fresh pickled vegetables. Budget ~$8–12/person.

In the afternoon, rent a 4WD taxi from town (~50 GEL roundtrip) to explore the Sno Valley and the nearby village of ⭐ Sno. This picturesque mountain village is famous for its natural mineral springs and features an unusual attraction known as "Giant Head Sculptures" — just before the village, huge stone heads are scattered across a field, each depicting a Georgian national poet, created by a local artist named Merab Piranishvili. Virtually no other tourists make it here. Budget ~2–3 hours.

Alternatively, if you have a 4WD and want something wilder, you can rent a bicycle from Stepantsminda and ride the 20km to Juta village at 2,200m — a slightly uphill ride there but easy and downhill on the way back. Juta Valley is a picturesque trail that feels like stepping into a postcard.

Evening

Sunset from your guesthouse terrace with Mount Kazbek going pink, then purple, then gray. There is no better sundowner in the Caucasus.

Dinner back at the guesthouse — your hosts will likely offer a full home-cooked spread if arranged in advance ($10–15 per person). Accept immediately.

🛏 Stay: Red Stone Guest House, Stepantsminda — Night 4.

Day 5: Over the Jvari Pass — The Military Highway's Greatest Hits

Morning

Today is the climax of the entire drive. After your guesthouse breakfast (those khinkali and khachapuri in the care package will power you all morning), you'll begin the return south — but slowly, stopping at every jaw-dropping viewpoint the road offers.

From Kazbegi, drive south to the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument at Gudauri. The Soviets erected it in 1983, and it's a cool cylindrical structure with bright mosaic artwork and 360-degree views over the mountain scenery. It was built to commemorate the Treaty of Georgievsk in 1783, in which the Georgian king swore allegiance to Russia in exchange for protection — though relations between the two countries have always been tense.

Before the monument, you'll pass through the Jvari Pass itself — the highest point of the journey. The road reaches its highest point at 2,395 metres above sea level here, and the Jvari Pass is a wind-down-the-window moment — take in the awesome views and soak up the fresh air. This winding pass marks the highest point of the Georgian Military Highway — a magnificent stretch of road with peaks on all sides. Look out for a rust-colored waterfall on the left and for the unmissable Mount Kazbek looming ahead.

At the top of the pass are stopping places where you can go for a horse ride into the mountains, drink tea and chacha — the fiercely potent Georgian pomace brandy — or get something to eat as you enjoy the surroundings.

Afternoon

Drive back towards Mtskheta, then continue east. Today's destination is Sighnaghi in the Kakheti wine region — roughly a 3-hour drive from Kazbegi (with a short stop in Tbilisi to refuel and grab a bite).

For lunch in Tbilisi en route, stop at ⭐ Kaklebi — a beloved, off-the-tourist-trail restaurant on the western fringe of the city. Kaklebi is well and truly off the tourist trail and has a very different, more local vibe — standout dishes include pork BBQ (the best mtsvadi in Tbilisi), and apkhazura caul-fat meatball with barberries. Budget ~$12–16/person.

Then drive east to Sighnaghi — Georgia's most romantic hilltop town, known as the "City of Love," draped in rose-colored brickwork and wrapped in ancient walls. The drive takes about 1.5 hours from Tbilisi. Sighnaghi is the most iconic town in the Kakheti wine region.

Evening

Arrive in Sighnaghi in the golden hour. Walk the ancient city walls as the Alazani Valley spreads below you like a quilt of vineyards, and the Greater Caucasus glitters in the last of the light.

Dinner at one of Sighnaghi's small family restaurants — order the local Kakhetian cuisine (heavier on walnuts and herbs than Tbilisi's style), a carafe of amber wine, and badrijani nigvzit (fried eggplant with walnut paste).

🛏 Stay: ⭐ Zandarashvili Guest House, Sighnaghi — Night 5. This family-run homestay is a real family effort, with spotlessly clean rooms and stellar cooking — Dad will happily drive you around for the day, showing you the best monasteries and wineries in the area. Budget ~$30–40/night including breakfast. Book via Booking.com.

Day 6: Kakheti — Wineries, Monasteries, and the Cradle of Wine

Morning

You're in Georgia's wine heartland now, and the whole day belongs to it. In Georgia, viniculture is as old as the hills — the 8,000-year-old practice of making wine in clay vessels called qvevri is recognized by UNESCO, and unlike any other wine culture you've experienced before. The region is home to over 500 indigenous grape varieties, contributing to a very diverse selection of wines.

Start the morning at Bodbe Monastery — a serene 9th-century complex on the edge of a forested hillside above Sighnaghi, housing the tomb of St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. It's peaceful, magnificent, and free to enter. Allow 45 minutes.

Breakfast at your guesthouse before heading out, or grab mtsvadi and lavash from a roadside vendor en route.

Afternoon

Drive ~30 minutes north to Telavi, the largest town in Kakheti. Do make a stop in Telavi — you can feel the ancient links as soon as you drive into town and see the remains of city walls, the cathedral, and the huge statue of King Erekle II in front of Batonis Tsikhe (castle remains). Pop into the Telavi Market, dating back to the 17th century and a bustle of activity — well known for fresh produce, spices, and local cheese, with stall holders happy to share a sample or two.

For lunch, head to ⭐ Mosmieri Kakheti Wine Centre in Kisishevi. This commercial winery and chateau offers formal wine degustations and meals on an outdoor terrace — the food is excellent and highly recommended. Budget ~$15–20/person including a tasting.

In the afternoon, seek out a small family marani (wine cellar) for an informal tasting experience — ask your guesthouse host or the Telavi market vendors for a recommendation. These are the kinds of encounters that define a Georgian trip: sitting in someone's stone cellar, wine poured from a qvevri buried in the floor, toasts exchanged in broken English and Georgian, the host's grandmother appearing with a plate of cheese and churchkhela from nowhere.

Also in the afternoon: Alaverdi Cathedral, one of the most important tourist attractions in Kakheti, located on the Alazani Valley — an enormous 11th-century monastery that rises from the flat vineyard plain like a ship. Free to enter.

Evening

Drive back to Sighnaghi (40 minutes) as the sun falls behind the mountains. Dinner at your guesthouse — a home-cooked Kakhetian feast that almost certainly involves more wine than you planned for. This is Georgia. This is correct.

🛏 Stay: Zandarashvili Guest House, Sighnaghi — Night 6.

Day 7: The Gombori Pass & Back to Tbilisi — A Finale to Remember

Morning

Your final driving day, and it's a beautiful one. The quickest way back to Tbilisi from Telavi is via the incredibly pretty (and very windy!) Gombori Pass, one of Georgia's most scenic roads.

Rise early for one last breakfast in Sighnaghi — your host's table will be laden with cheese, tkemali (sour plum sauce), eggs, fresh bread, and homemade jam. Eat everything.

Drive north to Telavi (30 minutes), then turn west onto the Gombori Pass Road. Along the verdant Gombori Pass, you will see vendors selling honey, and there is a cafe at the highest point of the road with a marked lookout point where it's safe to pull over for a photo. Buy at least one jar of local wildflower honey — it's one of Georgia's great underrated exports.

Afternoon

Ujarma Fortress lies at roughly the halfway point of the Gombori Pass and is a good place to break the journey — the complex dates to the 3rd century and has been partially restored, with walkways and lookout points added to the stone ruins. A hidden gem that almost nobody stops for on the way back from Kakheti. Budget 30–45 minutes.

Arrive back in Tbilisi by early afternoon — roughly 2–2.5 hours of driving from Sighnaghi via the Gombori Pass. Check back into Fabrika (or a different Tbilisi option if you prefer — the Communal Hotel Plekhanovi in Old Town offers stylish mid-range rooms from ~$60/night for a final-night splurge).

Spend your last afternoon revisiting Tbilisi with new eyes. After days in the mountains, the city feels louder, warmer, and more chaotic than ever. Walk through Rike Park, cross the Bridge of Peace, and wind through the Old Town one more time.

Evening

For your last dinner, make it count. Book ahead at Ninia's Garden in Didube. Named after the 20th-century Tbilisi merchant Ninia Zaridze, who opened her private garden to aid young lovers, the menu highlights classic Georgian recipes with a fine-dining edge — the pâté with beetroot confit, the rabbit with walnut sauce and fried polenta, and the veal shank with cheesy mash are all swoon-worthy. Budget ~$20–30/person.

End the night the way all road trips should end: raising a glass of Georgian amber wine to the road, the mountains, and the people who fed you along the way.

🛏 Stay: Fabrika Hostel & Suites or Communal Hotel Plekhanovi, Tbilisi — Night 7.

Key Practical Tips

• Georgia drives on the right but local driving habits can be aggressive. Be patient, predictable, and never rush a mountain pass.

• Budget roughly 50–70 GEL per person on average for a restaurant meal in Tbilisi (including a drink).

• Kazbegi is relatively affordable — expect to spend around €30–50 per day including meals, accommodation, and transport. Guesthouses often include breakfast, and local food is generous and inexpensive.

• Carry cash — ATMs can be unreliable in mountain regions.

• Dress code for churches: Women must cover their heads and shoulders; men must not wear shorts. Scarves are often provided at the entrance, but bringing your own is respectful.

• Tipping: Tipping is not part of mainstream culture in Georgia and is not considered mandatory — however, it is now expected in most service industries, especially in Tbilisi.

• Bolt app works in Tbilisi and is the most reliable way to get affordable taxis. Outside the capital, negotiate directly with drivers.

Sources & Inspiration

• Wander-Lush: Georgian Military Highway Guide

• Wander-Lush: Best Restaurants in Tbilisi

• Wander-Lush: Where to Stay in Kazbegi

• Wander-Lush: Kakheti Ultimate Guide

• Backpack Adventures: Georgian Military Highway

• Shortcuts and Side Quests: Overlanding on the Georgian Military Road

• Journal of Nomads: Kazbegi Travel Guide

• Beyond Wild Places: Hiking in Kazbegi

• Road is Calling: Georgian Military Road

• Eat This Tours: Best Restaurants in Tbilisi

• Ountravela: 10 Must-Sees on the Georgian Military Route

• The Gap Decaders: Georgian Military Highway

• Georgia.to: Ananuri Fortress

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