Liquid Gold & Amber Hours: A 5-Day Wine Lover's Guide to Tbilisi, Georgia

Sip your way through Tbilisi's ancient wine culture — qvevri cellars, natural wine bars, khinkali feasts & a Kakheti day trip.

Raul Luca

4/10/202617 min read

city with high-rise buildings under orange skies
city with high-rise buildings under orange skies

From ancient qvevri cellars to candlelit natural wine bars, Georgia's captivating capital is one of the world's most thrilling destinations for those who love wine — and eat for it, breathe for it, live for it.

There is a city where the first thing a newborn tastes — tradition dictates — is a drop of wine. Where the patron saint carried a cross fashioned from a grape vine. Where the colossal aluminium mother figure watching over the skyline from the hilltop holds a sword in one hand and, in the other, a bowl of wine. That city is Tbilisi, and you are about to fall completely under its spell.

Georgia is known for skin-contact wines and amber wines — white wines made by fermenting the grapes for a period with their skins on. Even though Georgia has an 8,000-year-old wine heritage, the concept of bottled wine is quite new — the first bottles were corked in 1841 at the Tsinandali Estate in Kakheti. What you'll find in Tbilisi today is something extraordinary: a country that never forgot how to make wine the old way, and a capital city that has built one of the most exciting natural wine scenes on Earth around that ancient knowledge.

This itinerary is built for the curious, the thirsty, and the happily unhurried. You'll sip your way through underground cellars and sun-drenched terraces, eat your weight in cheese-stuffed bread, and take a day trip to the landscape that started it all. The best part? Georgia remains one of the most affordable destinations in the world — your dollar goes startlingly far.

Hidden Gems are marked throughout this guide — these are lesser-known spots that locals love and tourists rarely find. You can also view this itinerary in the app and customize it for your own trip.

Day 1: Arrival in Old Tbilisi — First Pour in the Ancient City

Morning

Touch down, drop your bags, and orient yourself. Your base for the first three nights is Blue Fox Hotel, a gem tucked into the cobblestoned heart of Old Tbilisi. Set inside a restored private mansion opposite Tbilisi's oldest Orthodox church, Blue Fox blends courtyard charm with polished boutique design. Downstairs, an arched brick cellar doubles as a natural wine bar, pouring bottles from small Georgian producers alongside a Georgian-European menu. It's wonderfully on-theme — you don't even have to leave the building to begin your vinous education.

Once you've settled in, lace up your walking shoes and head to ⭐ Chaduna on Tabidze Street, a short stroll from Freedom Square. A long-standing favourite in the Sololaki neighbourhood, Chaduna is a delightful little cafe and wine bar set inside a heritage building. The location is perfect if you're staying near Freedom Square or on your way to Narikala Castle. It has a magical atmosphere — staff are warm and attentive, the vibe is pure Sololaki crumbling elegance, and the refined breakfast menu has something for everyone. Try the chizhi-bizhi — a Georgian-style shakshuka of tomatoes and eggs — with a strong Turkish-style coffee. Prices are extremely gentle (expect $3–5 for breakfast). At night, Chaduna transforms into a cosy wine bar serving gourmet bruschettas alongside natural vino. Remember the address for later.

Morning Activities (from ~10:30am)

After breakfast, walk uphill into Sololaki, Tbilisi's most cinematic neighbourhood. Amaghleba Street and its environs stretch like a long arm of the Sololaki neighborhood up into Tbilisi's hills. The broad main street is lined with 19th-century brick buildings, some of them graced with the magnificent wooden balconies characteristic of Old Tbilisi.

Make your way to Narikala Fortress — either hiking up the hill or taking the cable car from Rike Park. From its crumbling ramparts you'll get a sweeping panorama of the terracotta-roofed old city, the Mtkvari River curling below, and the green flash of the botanical gardens beyond. Take your time here; this is the kind of view that resets the soul.

Then descend into the Abanotubani sulfur bath district. Even if you don't soak (though you should — private sulfur baths cost around $10–15/hour), wandering through this domed neighbourhood of steaming bathhouses and Persian-influenced architecture is essential. You're steps away from the Sulfur Baths (Abanotubani), Narikala Fortress, Shardeni Street's lively cafes and bars, Metekhi Church, Sioni Cathedral, and the Peace Bridge.

Lunch (~12:30pm)

Wander to Pasanauri restaurant on the cobblestoned Old Town square near the "I Love Tbilisi" sign. Highly recommended and known for some of the best khinkali in Tbilisi, the restaurant is named after Pasanauri — a mountain town north of Tbilisi considered the birthplace of the best khinkali in Georgia. This is your cheapest and most authentic feed of the trip: a plateful of juicy, meat-filled dumplings runs roughly $4–6. The trick is to pick up the khinkali by the stubby twist of dough, turn it over so the flat part is facing your mouth, and bite a tiny hole in the base. From here it's best to suck out the fragrant, delicious soup or broth before biting into the dumplings. Wash it down with house wine — you're in Georgia, it would be rude not to.

Afternoon (2:00pm–6:00pm)

Now for your first proper wine education. Head to Archive on Sioni Street — Archive in Tbilisi is an absolute must-visit, more than just a wine bar — it's a restaurant and museum nestled underground in a 17th-century cellar. Book a guided tasting here with sommelier Jaba, who will walk you through Georgia's most prominent wine styles: a traditional amber qvevri wine made in the Georgian method, a white wine made with the classic European style, and a red Saperavi wine. A tasting for two typically runs $20–30 including the guide. This is your crash course in the grammar of Georgian wine — take notes, because the vocabulary gets addictive.

Afterward, stroll along the pedestrian drag of Shardeni Street and up to Gudiashvili Square, one of Old Tbilisi's most atmospheric piazzas. Look for the narrow alleys fanning off the square — this is the kind of wandering that makes Tbilisi so addictive.

Evening (~7:00pm onwards)

For your first dinner, head to ⭐ Terracotta on Amaghleba Street in Sololaki. At No. 16 sits Terracotta, where a patinaed metal awning hangs over steps heading down into the small, welcoming restaurant and wine bar below. The warm earth tones inside evoke its history as a ceramics studio, and the vases, cups and plates on display are a direct inheritance of Tata Samkharadze, who took over her parents' art space when they chose to close it in 2018. In its place, she opened a small restaurant a year later with cook Anna Burduli. The food is seasonal Georgian-European, the wine list curates small-producer bottles, and the atmosphere is intimate and utterly original. Budget $20–30 per person including wine.

End the night back downstairs at Blue Fox's own cellar wine bar — pour yourself a nightcap of Rkatsiteli and let the day sink in.

Day 2: Deep Dives — Vino Underground, 8000 Vintages & a Wine Factory

Lodging: Blue Fox Hotel, Old Tbilisi (nights 1–3)

Morning (~9:00am)

Start at Shavi — a beloved local bakery with two locations (one in Sololaki, one in Vera). With two stores, one in Sololaki and the other in hip Vera, you'll never be too far from Shavi's morning baked goods, but get there early if you want to snag one of those buns — they always sell out super fast. Their iced cinnamon buns are legendary, but the Georgian cheese bread (lobiani) pairs dangerously well with the morning's first espresso.

Morning Activities (10:00am–12:30pm)

Make your way to Vino Underground on Sioni Street — this is where Tbilisi's natural wine revolution was born, and it still holds its spiritual authority. Vino Underground is a legendary natural wine bar in Tbilisi known for stocking cult and often unlabeled bottles from the country's most experimental vintners. The bar offers visitors the chance to taste unique and oddball wines not commonly found elsewhere. The cozy atmosphere, located in a centuries-old basement, provides an ideal setting to relax and enjoy wine along with small bites.

Owner John Wurdeman also owns Pheasant's Tears, one of the best-known wineries and restaurants in Georgia. The basement wine bar and shop is the best place in Tbilisi to buy natural Georgian wines, boasting a selection of about 350 different bottles, some of which are also available by the glass. The wine selection includes rare offerings, including some from prominent Georgian winemakers who don't sell in other bars or shops. It's not uncommon to find winemakers propping up the bar here themselves. Buy at least one bottle to take home. It is not uncommon to see many special wine people here — winemakers in particular but also sommeliers and restaurateurs.

From here, walk around the corner to explore the newly revived Lado Gudiashvili Square and the charming web of lanes that spool off it — the kinds of streets where you'll find cats dozing on carved wooden balconies and the smell of churchkhela drifting from market stalls.

Lunch (~1:00pm)

Head to ⭐ Wine Merchants in the hip Chugureti neighbourhood (a 15-minute walk or short taxi from Old Town). This bar in the hip neighbourhood of Chugureti has a big selection of Georgian bottles plus delicious sharing plates — their pâté is unreal. The owner is very friendly and knowledgeable. A great place for a laid-back drink or two. Wine Merchants is a cozy multi-room wine bar and wine shop located in Tbilisi's Chugureti neighborhood, also known as Marjanishvili. Split a bottle of amber Kisi with the cheese board and linger. Budget: ~$15–20 per person.

Practical tip: The Chugureti/Marjanishvili neighbourhood is highly walkable. While you're here, explore Aghmashenebeli Avenue — a beautifully restored pedestrian street lined with cafes and art.

Afternoon (2:30pm–6:30pm)

Walk (or take a short taxi) to 8000 Vintages — the name is a tribute to Georgia's millennia of winemaking. The wine bar and shop 8000 Vintages offers something for everyone. Guests can either buy wines or reserve a table, as well as indulge in tapas in the evening. It is committed to promoting Georgian-bottled wines and has expanded to multiple locations, including Tbilisi, Batumi, and a recent opening in Berlin. The wines are carefully chosen through blind tastings by experienced wine professionals, sommeliers, and oenologists. Each location is staffed with a dedicated professional sommelier ready to assist you in selecting the perfect wines for any occasion. The most central location is at 27 Revaz Tabukashvili St.

From 8000 Vintages, make your way to Wine Factory No. 1 in the Vera neighbourhood — a sprawling converted factory complex that has become one of Tbilisi's most beloved social spaces. Wine Factory No. 1, a former factory turned into a restaurant and bar complex, is one of the most popular areas for locals to hang out. Wine Factory No. 1 features lots of bars and a couple of fantastic restaurants housed in a refurbished wine factory. Grab a glass at one of the terrace bars and watch the local evening crowd gather — this is Tbilisi as Tbilisians actually live it.

Evening (~7:00pm)

For dinner tonight, splurge just a little at g.Vino Wine Bar in Vake. This legendary restaurant/bar curates rare natural wines from large and small cellars around Georgia. The dining menu consists of small tapas-style plates. If natural wine is your thing, g.Vino is a must-visit when you're in Tbilisi. The food is inventive and far from typical — think vegan flatbreads, pulled beef pitas, and baby chicken — and the wine list is curated with genuine obsession. Advance bookings are recommended in summer. Budget: $30–40 per person. Worth every tetri.

Practical tip: The Georgian word for cheers is gaumarjos — always a handy one to have up your sleeve!

Day 3: Craft Wine, Hidden Cellars & the Wine Tower

Lodging: Blue Fox Hotel, Old Tbilisi (night 3)

Morning (~9:00am)

Breakfast at Kikliko, a local favourite in the Sololaki area. One of the best breakfast places in town, Kikliko is open on weekdays from 8am and offers a large selection of Georgian breakfasts — mainly different variations of eggs. Eggy bread is crisped up and served with different toppings — kiklikos with cheese, eggs, ham, and mushrooms in various combinations. Simple, cheap (~$4–6), and deeply satisfying.

Morning Activities (10:00am–1:00pm)

Today's morning is dedicated to Craft Wine Restaurant on Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue — possibly the most exciting wine-forward dining room in Tbilisi. Craft Wine Restaurant caters specifically to natural wine enthusiasts, offering an extensive selection from all regions of Georgia. This makes it likely the largest natural wine list in Tbilisi. Chef Giorgi, known for his exceptional culinary skills, crafts delicious dishes infused with various spices. His wife, Mancho, manages the restaurant and curates the impressive wine selection. The restaurant's cosy interior and tantalising aromas create an inviting atmosphere. Visit for a late morning glass and some small bites — they open for lunch service.

Then walk to the Dry Bridge Flea Market — Tbilisi's famous weekend bazaar where Soviet memorabilia, oil paintings, brass Soviet stars, and antique wine vessels are piled high on folding tables. Lose yourself in it for an hour and, if you're lucky, find a vintage tamada (toastmaster) figurine to bring home.

Lunch (~12:30pm)

Head to ⭐ Amo Rame Khinkali on Aghmashenebeli Avenue — a local favourite that most tourists walk straight past. An offshoot of the popular khinkali bar in Sololaki, this 'district' kitchen specialises in Amo Rame's signature hand-pinched khinkali dumplings. Both vegetarian versions — the plaited nadughi soft cheese dumplings and the creamy, deftly seasoned potato version — are the best in Tbilisi. Happily, there is no minimum order, so you can try both! A full feast of khinkali for two costs around $6–8. Order a carafe of local house wine ($2–3) and you've nailed the most Georgian lunch imaginable.

Afternoon (2:00pm–6:00pm)

Make your way back into Old Town for the Wine Tower (Wine Not) on Kote Abkhazi Street — located in the heart of the old town right next to the tamada statue, this wine bar is unique as it not only has a fantastic selection of Georgian wines but is spread over three floors, one of which is a roof terrace, helping it live up to its name of being a literal wine tower — with spiral staircase and all! In warmer months, the roof terrace offers views of the cable car and Narikala Fortress. Climb all the way to the top with a glass of Kindzmarauli and toast the city.

In the late afternoon, if you have energy and curiosity remaining, seek out ⭐ Karalashvili's Wine Cellar — one of Old Town's most hidden and special spots. This quaint cellar bar in the heart of the old town can be a bit tricky to find, but once you find it, you'll love that you came here for a wine tasting. The Karalashvili family has been making qvevri wine since 1396, and their wine bar is just like stepping back in time. There's nothing like it anywhere else in the city — a family who has been making wine for over 600 years, still pressing grapes in the ancient way. Order by the glass (from about 10 GEL) or try a three or five-wine tasting.

Evening (~7:00pm)

Tonight, walk the lamplit streets of the old city to Poliphonia Natural Wine — a natural wine restaurant that is part of John Wurdeman's portfolio. In addition to its nice wine selection, it also has a food menu focused on wild, seasonal, and local ingredients from around Georgia. It's the kind of restaurant where you'll linger over a bottle of orange Mtsvane and forget what time zones are. Budget: ~$25–35 per person.

Day 4: Day Trip to Kakheti — The Cradle of Wine

An early departure is essential — today is a full-day excursion.

Lodging: Move to Communal Hotel Plekhanovi or Sololaki for nights 4–5

Tonight, switch your base to Communal Hotel Plekhanovi. With two properties in Tbilisi, Communal has quietly become one of Georgia's most dependable boutique names. Communal Sololaki and Communal Plekhanovi are both thoughtfully designed, each reflecting the character of their historic neighbourhoods while maintaining the brand's signature warmth and polish. Plekhanovi is a particular favourite thanks to its on-site restaurants — Weller for Levantine flavours, and Craft Wine for elevated Georgian dishes and natural wines. One of Communal's calling cards is the breakfast: an ultra-abundant, sharing-style spread that feels more like a long, leisurely brunch. Rooms start around $70–90/night — exceptional value for the quality.

Morning (~8:00am departure)

Book a guided day tour to Kakheti, Georgia's legendary wine region, departing Tbilisi at 8:00–8:30am. Kakheti is the country's premier wine-producing region and is often referred to as the "Cradle of Wine." It has a winemaking tradition spanning more than 8,000 years using the unique qvevri method. The region is home to over 500 indigenous grape varieties, contributing to a very diverse selection of wines.

The most highly rated option is the Kakheti Wine Region Tour via GetYourGuide — rated 4.9/5 from over 2,600 reviews — which includes nine wine tastings and departs from Avlabari Metro Station at 8:30am. Cost: from ~$29–58 per person. Alternatively, Eat This Tours runs small-group wine tours to Kakheti and Sighnaghi with a more boutique, artisan-focused approach. Available daily (April–August), meet artisan winemakers in Kakheti, Georgia's legendary wine region — a fun, flavorful day of qvevri wine, local stories, and traditional food straight from the source.

Getting there: The beautiful road to Kakheti lies through the Gombori Pass — about 2 hours and 100 km from Tbilisi.

First Stop: Badiauri Village (~10:30am)

Your first stop is the village of Badiauri, where you can visit a local bakery and taste delicious Georgian bread and cheese. Watch the bakers slide flatbread into a tone (a clay-lined pit oven), then eat it straight from the fire, blistered and chewy, with a slather of fresh Georgian cheese. This is one of those moments that will ruin all other bread for you forever.

Second Stop: Bodbe Monastery (~11:30am)

Transfer to the serene Bodbe Monastery, a significant pilgrimage site and a beautiful example of Georgian ecclesiastical architecture originally built in the 9th century. The monastery, dedicated to St. Nino, who is credited with converting Georgia to Christianity, offers a peaceful retreat with its lush gardens and stunning views of the Alazani Valley. Dress conservatively — women should bring a head covering and avoid shorts or sleeveless tops for church entry.

Lunch (~12:30pm–1:30pm)

Most tours include a traditional Georgian lunch at a local family home or restaurant, often with mountain views. Visits to three wineries, tastings of 11+ wines from multiple PDOs, and exploration of the mountain village of Sighnaghi are included in the best full-day tours, along with a wine-pairing lunch and family-style dinner. Don't be shy at the table — this is Georgia, and refusing food is practically illegal.

Look for Churchkhela being sold roadside — called "Georgian Snickers," this treat is made by stringing together walnuts on a thread, dipping this string repeatedly into a thickened mixture of grape juice, flour, and some sugar, and then hanging to dry. Buy a bundle. They're extraordinary.

Afternoon: Sighnaghi (~2:00pm–5:30pm)

The day's jewel: Sighnaghi, the so-called "City of Love," perched above the Alazani Valley. Walk the town's cobblestone streets, climb the city walls, and admire the red-tiled roofs and ornate balconies throughout. The views of the surrounding Alazani Valley are breathtaking.

Visit Khareba Winery nearby — the wines rest in a cave dug into the rocks of the Caucasus — for a proper cellar tasting. Wines to seek out in Kakheti: Tsinandali, a flagship Georgian white wine born in the 1830s combining Rkatsiteli and Kakhuri Mtsvane; Kisi, an amber wine produced in the Kakhetian qvevri way with high tannins and unforgettable aromas of dried fruit; and Saperavi — leaving Kakheti without tasting Saperavi wine would be a crime.

Return to Tbilisi: ~7:00–8:00pm by minivan, through the scenic Gombori Pass.

Evening

After the long, wine-soaked day, check into Communal Hotel and eat light at the hotel's own Craft Wine restaurant or Weller next door. You've earned the rest.

Day 5: Farewell Pours — Markets, a Wine Window & One Last Supra

Lodging: Communal Hotel Plekhanovi (final night)

Morning (~9:00am)

Enjoy Communal's legendary breakfast spread before heading to the Dezerter Bazaar — Tbilisi's vast, gloriously chaotic food market, a 10-minute walk from the hotel. This is where locals actually shop. Stall after stall overflows with churchkhela ropes, wild herbs, honeycomb, dried spices, and — most importantly — bottles of homemade wine and chacha (Georgian grape grappa) sold in unlabelled plastic bottles by grandmothers who will insist you taste everything. Budget a couple dollars and taste freely. This is the most authentic grocery shop on earth.

Practical tip: The best time to visit Tbilisi for affordable hotel rates is mid-November to early March. In November, tourist crowds thin out and hotels lower prices before the holiday season. But the Dezerter Bazaar is wonderful year-round.

Morning Activities (10:30am–12:30pm)

Stroll to Atoneli Street, one of Tbilisi's hippest and most recently revived dining strips. Stop here for a very Tbilisian experience: the city's first wine window, inspired by the famous buchette del vino of Florence. In spring 2025, Tbilisi got its first wine window! Inspired by the wine windows of Florence, this hole-in-the-wall bar is run by popular restaurant Mussels Place and located just around the corner from the restaurant on historic Atoneli Street. The quieter side-alley location means you can quite happily stand on the sidewalk and enjoy your beverage. If you fancy a glass of chinuri, kisi, or rkatsiteli — or maybe even a Georgian cheese board — to go, just ring the bell. Everything is priced at 8 GEL. At roughly $3 a glass, this is the best-value wine window on the planet.

Then spend time at ⭐ Sulico in the nearby Vera neighbourhood — a few years ago, Sulico opened in Tbilisi and swiftly became a cherished spot among locals and tourists in the heart of the historic District Vera. The bar offers a wide variety of natural and conventional wines paired with a fusion of Georgian and European cuisine. The atmosphere is enchanting and welcoming, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Situated on the lower floor, guests can savour their wine and food while observing people stroll by just a few feet away. It is the perfect place for a late-morning glass and a slow hour of people-watching.

Lunch (~1:00pm)

Alubali is a charming café-restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, offering a delightful selection of traditional Georgian cuisine and a wide variety of conventional wines from all regions of Georgia. Visitors are encouraged to savour the wines in the garden, surrounded by lemon trees, and indulge in freshly baked Georgian khachapuri. It's a lovely, casual spot for a final Georgian feast — the kind of meal where you order far too much and don't regret a single bite. Budget $15–20 per person.

Afternoon (2:30pm–6:00pm)

For your final afternoon, return to the Fabrika complex in Chugureti — the legendary Fabrika, Tbilisi's long-standing hipster hub, needs no introduction. This retrofitted factory serves many different functions, but the best time to visit is in the evening when the courtyard transforms into one big open-air block party and the mirror ball starts spinning in the lounge. Since there are several bars and restaurants gathered in one spot, there is a good variety of options on offer. For wine, head to Saamuri Natural Wine Bar inside the courtyard.

Pick up last-minute wine bottles to take home from ⭐ Vino Underground or any of the 8000 Vintages locations. Georgia has a generous duty-free allowance, and bottles are extraordinarily affordable — quality qvevri amber wines from small producers can be found for $5–15.

Evening (~7:00pm — The Final Supra)

End your Tbilisi odyssey in proper Georgian style: a supra (a traditional feast presided over by a tamada, or toastmaster) is the greatest communal dining ritual on Earth. Book a table at ⭐ Barbarestan — one of Tbilisi's best fine-dining restaurants, whose owners found a 19th-century Georgian cookbook at an antique market and recreated its traditional recipes using modern, innovative techniques. The wine list is exceptional, the food is unlike anything else in the city, and the atmosphere — warm, dimly lit, buzzing with conversation — is exactly how you want to spend your last night. Budget $30–45 per person. Reserve at least a week ahead.

Raise a final glass of Saperavi to the city. Gaumarjos.

Essential Practical Tips for Tbilisi Wine Lovers

Currency: Georgia uses the lari (GEL). As of 2025, roughly 1 USD ≈ 2.7 GEL. Use ATMs to withdraw cash — they offer the best rates. Many wine bars and restaurants accept cards, but smaller spots and the Dezerter Bazaar are cash-only.

Getting Around: Tbilisi's Old Town, Sololaki, and Vera are highly walkable. For cross-city trips, Bolt (the local ride-share) is absurdly affordable — most rides cost $1–3. The metro is clean and efficient at 50 tetri per ride.

Wine Budget: A glass of Georgian wine at a bar typically costs 8–20 GEL ($3–7). A bottle at a wine shop ranges from 15–60 GEL ($5–22) for excellent quality. A full guided tasting runs 30–80 GEL ($11–30).

Best Season: Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October, harvest season) are ideal. The best season to take a Kakheti wine tour and tasting is between April and October. For harvest experiences, visit wineries during September and October.

Reservations: Advance bookings are recommended in summer at popular spots like g.Vino, Barbarestan, and Craft Wine. Book 1–2 weeks ahead for dinner during peak season.

Dress code: Wine bars are casual. For church visits on the Kakheti day trip, bring a scarf for women and avoid shorts for everyone.

Tbilisi Wine Vocabulary Cheat Sheet:

  • Qvevri — the clay amphora used to ferment and age wine underground

  • Amber wine — skin-contact white wine (Georgia's signature style)

  • Saperavi — the dominant red grape, inky and tannic

  • Rkatsiteli — the most widely planted white grape

  • Chacha — grape pomace spirit (Georgia's answer to grappa)

  • Gaumarjos — cheers!

  • Tamada — the toastmaster at a supra

Sources & Inspiration

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